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Thursday, December 15, 2016

5.29.16 Back in the Water after almost TWO YEARS, La Bocana/ita, El Salvador

My uncle's club membership includes a membership to a beachfront club right at Sunzal and we headed down on a Sunday.  I met up with Chamba at Roca Sunzal and he lent me a pair of boardshorts and a 5'11".

Sunzal was packed thanks to it being a Sunday and Sunzal.  It didn't look very good or very big.  I decided to try my luck at La Bocana even though that place can't handle wind well.

I was really excited to see how I would fare.  The longest I'd been out of the water prior to this was around two months during a prolonged flat spell in early 2000.  I walked up the beach on a rising tide and my pale, white feet were feeling the sun and rocks bonking around.  My matching body and its resulting glare likely caused a few locals to squint.

I hit the water with no one out.  My paddling technique came right back and my first duckdive felt incredible.  It was easy to see why no one had paddled out.  It was completely blown out, though about shoulder-high on the sets.  It was still the best surf I'd been in in a long time, and my stoke level reflected that.

I caught a wave on which I pumped once and watched it crumble lazily then close out.  The current was making its presence known.  I fought back with some southbound paddles but eventually gave up when I saw something break at La Bocanita.

I caught literally nothing of note the rest of the day.  My highlight was an extremely late drop, it almost felt like an air-drop.

I was extremely surprised at how in tune I still was with surfing.

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