Mike had some free time and decided to come up and surf with me near my house. He picked me up and we paddled out at Mavs.
The blackball was in effect, so there was an area with no surfers whatsoever. I told Mike we should paddle where we're JUST inside of that. I figured the current would sweep us right into an enticing peak.
Not long after we'd perched, I caught my first wave. It was a left I raced and lost.
I was in position for a solid overhead right. I caught it, then hooked around the section and vertically CRUSHED it in the steepest part of the wave, throwing tons of spray. The wave fizzled after that and I was alright with that.
Fifteen or so minutes went by and frustration got the best of me. I took off on a wave on which it was pretty obvious I wouldn't see daylight. I went for it and after much finessing made it to the unbroken part of the wave. Unfortunately, this was a sider, which was much smaller.
I had to let a couple of overhead bombs go because I was just too late on them.
I caught another couple of overhead lefts on which I was convinced I was going to pearl, but I somehow made it.
I convinced Mike to switch boards with me and he did. He had never tried this type of board before. I took his Tokoro, which didn't feel all that big to me even though it was nine inches longer (that's what she said?).
Mike is the type of guy who is afraid of missing out, so I was a real bro when I told him we could switch back if he wanted. I think it was his puppy dog eyes that let me know he was ready to switch.
It never got to the point where the crowd was a factor, but there were some sick bombs in the blackball. Seeing as to how we'd been outside the designated surfing area for about all of our session, I went for it. Five or so minutes later I was rewarded with a bomb.
Mike was telling me a story about his brothers and the mayor of Oceanside when I spotted something massive on the horizon. My vision was confirmed when a guy was sprint-paddling for it, trying to pass me. Given my superior positioning and average awareness, I was able to situate myself in priority. I was a little bit late, but I bottom turned hard and did the best frontside hack I've done in over a year. I got hung up slightly then rejoiced as I descended again. I kicked out elated.
Mike had a time constraint as he's helping plan his son's third birthday party tomorrow and we had to go. We were in the water for close to ninety minutes.
The blackball was in effect, so there was an area with no surfers whatsoever. I told Mike we should paddle where we're JUST inside of that. I figured the current would sweep us right into an enticing peak.
Not long after we'd perched, I caught my first wave. It was a left I raced and lost.
I was in position for a solid overhead right. I caught it, then hooked around the section and vertically CRUSHED it in the steepest part of the wave, throwing tons of spray. The wave fizzled after that and I was alright with that.
Fifteen or so minutes went by and frustration got the best of me. I took off on a wave on which it was pretty obvious I wouldn't see daylight. I went for it and after much finessing made it to the unbroken part of the wave. Unfortunately, this was a sider, which was much smaller.
I had to let a couple of overhead bombs go because I was just too late on them.
I caught another couple of overhead lefts on which I was convinced I was going to pearl, but I somehow made it.
I convinced Mike to switch boards with me and he did. He had never tried this type of board before. I took his Tokoro, which didn't feel all that big to me even though it was nine inches longer (that's what she said?).
Mike is the type of guy who is afraid of missing out, so I was a real bro when I told him we could switch back if he wanted. I think it was his puppy dog eyes that let me know he was ready to switch.
It never got to the point where the crowd was a factor, but there were some sick bombs in the blackball. Seeing as to how we'd been outside the designated surfing area for about all of our session, I went for it. Five or so minutes later I was rewarded with a bomb.
Mike was telling me a story about his brothers and the mayor of Oceanside when I spotted something massive on the horizon. My vision was confirmed when a guy was sprint-paddling for it, trying to pass me. Given my superior positioning and average awareness, I was able to situate myself in priority. I was a little bit late, but I bottom turned hard and did the best frontside hack I've done in over a year. I got hung up slightly then rejoiced as I descended again. I kicked out elated.
Mike had a time constraint as he's helping plan his son's third birthday party tomorrow and we had to go. We were in the water for close to ninety minutes.
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