Harbor had offered up decent waves during my previous session, but not many for me. I vowed to change that on this day. I had no plans of surfing Pier but a quick glance on my surf rack-equipped beach cruiser revealed a
bomb right breaking off the pier with solid not too-fast speed,
steepness and great shape. I considered pulling off then and there but I
had to continue my mission.
Ten or so more minutes of pedaling revealed nothing worthwhile at Harbor. The task of pedaling this one gear beast back up the hills seemed daunting but less so when I considered that magical right I'd seen.
I pedaled out to the lookout south of Pier and there wasn't much there. I eventually settled on locking up the bike at Tyson and paddling out to a sandbar that seemed to work ok. I focused initially on the rights. Nothing all that memorable stands out from the numerous closeouts, though there was one wave on which I had my hand on the deck, trying to lean into it to get some speed.
The memorable wave of the day was a right and it was fast. I popped up and made it around the initial explosion. A bit more wave came down and I was antsy to catch up to the beautiful green wall that was just sitting there for me to climb and, likely, disappoint. I felt the urge to bail, but I overpowered it thanks to that sight of the next section.
The lip then slammed down just inside the backside rail of my board. In one fell swoop, my board flipped over and I fell onto a fin, butthole first. I felt an unfamiliar, and much to my relief, completely not sexy feeling as the fin and I became one.
I was pretty sure what had happened as I tossed and tumbled underwater. As I was surfacing, I felt for the source of the pain and realized that the fin had indeed destroyed an important portion of the protection I had packed. My wetsuit had a small tear in it.
My ass was sore. I had fallen down right on the fin, a direct hit; you sank my battleship. Luckily though, my momentum must have spun my body in such a way that my buttbone took a lot of the hit. It is still sore as I type this, more than eighty hours post trauma.
The bike ride back was a difficult one. When I got home I bent over and asked my wife if she noticed anything different about me. She immediately asked what happened to my ass.
My wetsuit is now repaired and after a trip to my proctologist, I'm happy to announce my behymen is still intact.
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