The crowd was evident right away. I saw the blackheads on the otherwise smooth ocean surface before I saw the waves.
The winds were still great, so the waves were at their maximum potential given the swell they had to work with.
I caught a left within ten minutes of paddling out, but it closed out right away.
I caught a right and was blinded by the morning sun as I bottom turned. I went mostly by feel and snapped too late, my fins released over the shoulder and I tumbled.
I caught a zippy left and pumped a couple of times. I was FLYING down the line. I spotted my chance, just past the spilling lip, and I did something I can't remember happening since 2003 La Bocanita. I snapped so suddenly I kicked my fins out of the water. I'd like to say I spun it halfway around and rode it out fakie, then engaged my fins to spin out of it. In reality, I'd made it ninety degrees and slumped forward.
The combination of swelling crowd and scarcity of waves (thanks to the high tide) sapped my stoke for the day. I packed it in.