I'd checked Oside and to call it surfable would've been generous. Lazy, spilling waves were being turned ugly by the S wind.
Since it'd taken me so long to drive home yesterday, I refused to take the freeway. I also hoped to come across a more surfable spot.
Ponto showed a good set as I whizzed past, but there were easily two dozen heads on it.
I was going to check D Street and call it a no-go, but I decided to go to Grandview. I checked it and was unimpressed by what I saw. I saw something decent at Avocado's, but it was really inconsistent. I waffled, then decided to head to D. On my way to my ride, I heard someone call my name and it was my dad's buddy Frank. I'd never surfed with him so I decided to paddle out with him for the hell of it.
My first wave was a left, that looked to be pretty fun. As I popped up, I noticed there was a lot of water moving around on it. Unfortunately, there was someone paddling out right in my way about ten yards away. I descended down the face in an attempt to squeeze past him, but the chunkiness of the wave didn't allow for much maneuvering. I did a fly-away out the back.
It took a solid twenty minutes for me to catch my next wave and it was about head-high. I was salivating. I descended and just as I transitioned my weight onto my heels a cross-chop must've hit and sent me tumbling ass-first into the water, frustrated. NOOOOOOO!
A LONG lull later and I had my shot at redemption on another right. I bottom turned hard, picked my spot and hit it, but I must've put too much weight into it for its lack of slope. I hadn't done a turn this hard since Punta Roca, so maybe my muscle memory expected more push-back? I sailor-dived.
Another long lull later, I was on a left on which I got a lot of speed on. A guy paddling sideways toward me hooted me on it. I passed him and went up to collect my reward, a meaty hit section. Only there wasn't one. I had bottom-turned sharply with the expectation of a power section and it was WWEEAAKK!! I threw a little spray and just kind of stood there as the swell continued towards its demise without me.