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Tuesday, April 30, 2013

4.24.13 Swept Along by the Current in Oceanside

Well, I did it again.

I let the surf forecast pundits, the so-called experts, get me excited for the day's conditions.

Because of the devil south wind and the wave-smothering rising tide, I had to get out there early.

I have a theory about south winds being worse than onshore winds.  Onshore winds' damage to waves can be minimized by the surface-smoothing kelp beds, if  a spot has them.  Swami's is an excellent example of this.

Unless you're surfing a spot with a favorable headland set-up (Scripps is an example) south winds will destroy the sea surface.

We are in Spring, season of south winds.

The scuba flag was pointing in a side onshore direction, so it wasn't all  that bad.  Once I spotted the waves, I was pleased to see only slight shape deterioration.  I parked The Rad in the free lot, suited up and made my way to the beach.

There was not much out there.  Sure, there were some rare head-high sets, but the vast majority of them would close out.  All of them seemed to section within five or six seconds of first foaming.

I walked farther south as I continued to scan the wavescape.  I noticed a sizable contingent of spongers out.  Many more than usual.  Was there an invisible blackball in effect? Had there been a virus that had wiped out stand-uppers, with just me and a few of my brethren left to regenerate our species (not sure how that would work as I saw only dudes)?

I paddled, after a ten-minute walk out, in search of answers.  I got my first wave pretty quickly.  I was hanging out on the inside after pulling back from both waves of a set.  A bump came, and I whirled for it.  I got a pump on it, then realized it was hollowing out a bit on the inside.  The wave did throw out, but not enough to allow me into the part after which I lusted most.  I received a cruel slap to the temple for my efforts.

My next wave arrived ten minutes later, and it was a right.  I dropped in and noticed the wave immediately chubbed.  I did a weak cutty, recovered and had no choice but to fade off the back.

I was getting in a sort of Bermuda Triangle of waves.  None seemed to break and I was heading towards the pier on the current, where there was nothing much better.

I decided to go in and hoof it back south.  On my way to The Strand, the beachfront street, I found an almost empty tin container of Mexican candy someone had left.  I picked it up.  I noticed a cigarette butt, then another, then another.  I started piling them into the candy container until it was full.  I couldn't believe how many cigarette butts there were.  And this is in a country with $1000 fine for littering!  I was pretty disgusted by my species.  I found a trash can, continued to walk and practically shed a tear

I composed myself and paddled back out.
I caught a left on which I had the good fortune of watching it close out.

On my way back out from the last wave, I got a look at a quick left on the inside, where the only juice seemed to be, and pumped once, then levitated up to the falling lip.  I floated for less than two seconds, then airdropped down, consciously attempting to match the angle of my board with the slope of the wave.  I was successful, as evidenced by the burst of speed I enjoyed.  There was nothing to hit, so I kicked out, amped. 

My last wave was another close-out.

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