I'd checked it here on Thursday and I left underwhelmed, and more noteworthy, with dry hair.
Missed-It-Mike was out of commission due to illness.
The forecasts said there would be a bump in the swell, and for once, they were right. I was a bit concerned with the incoming tide, as I thought it would slow the waves down.
Once there, I saw bigger waves, but the vast majority appeared to close out
On my way to the water, I saw a guy pull in to a shoulder-high tube and go in there for a bit less than two seconds before getting clipped on the double-up. I quickened my pace. As I paddled out, he rode in prone and I tried to congratulate him on the wave. Judging by the quizzical look on his face, I don't think he was able to make out what I was saying over the roar of the whitewash.
My first wave was ok. I tucked in late into the tube for a crab grab but I didn't make it out. I think what happened is I put too much weight on the front of the board and swept the fins out enough to scrub off my speed. No matter, as I don't think it was makeable (I saw maybe two makeables all session). As the waves get bigger, I'm hoping the barrels do too and I can do proper pig dogs.
Nearly twenty minutes after many paddle-fors/pullbacks, I caught a second wave. It was also a tight right barrel. I got a great view of the spinning cylinder, with the morning sun trying to power through the clouds, reflecting onto the face of the wave. Suddenly, SLAM! My world turned gray as I churned under the surface of the wave, getting buffeted by the power of the wave.
I got a look at a semi-open left less than five minutes later. The speed with which the barrel proceeded surprised me and I attempted a late and unsuccessful standing island pull-out.
The next wave was akin (get it?) to the previous wave's female fraternal twin. A little smaller and it revealed itself to me a few minutes later than its bigger brother. I made it around the initial crashing section, but the wave closed out soon thereafter.
At this point the offshore winds picked up and got to the point where they were almost too strong. On waves this size, and with such a small window to catch them, offshore winds over 5 knots can delay your descent and make it so you have no speed with which to catch up to the green water.
It'd been a half-hour or so since my last crab grab barrel and I began itching uncontrollably for my next taste. I got in on one late and it was my longest barrel of the day. The lip collapsed on my head and it marked the end of the tunnel for me.
I caught another right with the intent of doing a turn, but it shut down before I'd descended completely. I bottom turned and bailed.
I was getting the feeling that today was going to be all about closeout barrels, so I stuffed myself into yet another tight right tube. The wave coquettishly decided to JUST spill over at its peak, decimating my plans to get tucked in. I let the board go and sank under the spilling wave.
My last wave was a pretty sick one. I was late on it and barely air-dropped into the pit, re-engaged my fins and drove through a right barrel. Unfortunately, I got caught up by the foam ball and tossed.
I'd had enough of the closeouts.