On this day, the rash on my lower rib cage was bothering me. Thankfully, the surf was down. I did end up trying an SUP (Stand-Up Paddle board).
After at least a dozen and half bails, I was over it. It's a lot harder than it looks. I'd like to say that now I respect the sweepers, but by and large, my experience with them has been resentment towards them for being wave hogs. Let's just say I now respect them one modicum more than I did a week ago.
After I handed off the SUP for someone else to have a go, I got on a 6'3" fish, as I'd noticed some tight little right-hand barrels coming off the rocks. I got in position for two and they were markedly similar. I leaned forward hard and the fins and tail were pulled out of the water, making me pearl just as the lip was cascading over me.
I did catch a pretty sick right that I got to pump and throw a little spray on (twice), but that was as far as this session went.
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