Hibernation implies that there is a rough end to the period of rest. For bears, it's springtime.
My time as a surfer is on indefinite hiatus, in suspended animation, open-ended sabbatical, etc.
Three days ago, I caught my first glimpse of the Pacific Ocean in 511 days. This is without a doubt a record.
The waves were breaking ok but the wind was wreaking havoc. I had no temptation to paddle out.
The farthest north I've ever caught a wave is Seal Beach, just south of Long Beach. And here I was in Long Beach, WA; looking at an empty line-up and mindsurfing the various sections.
I left CA nearly seventeen months ago and I can't say I miss it. Encinitas, where we were living, has gotten retardedly expensive. The mix of people has gone from middle class families to rich business owners and trustafarians. Long gone are the days when people talked about real issues affecting the community. The narcissism got out of control: "If it doesn't affect me, it doesn't matter" could be the 20's mantra.
"Keep Leucadia Funky" is emblazoned on late-model cars; late-model cars being the antithesis of funky.
My wife got her dream job in Seatle, so we've been here for the past year and change.
Should I visit El Salvador again next year, I will surf. Until then, I'm a fully certified dry guy.
