I braved the road from town to La Libertad after it had been further battered by the monsoon-light's dousing.
Aaron was leaving today so I took advantage of school having been cancelled (and freeing me from taking Lucia) and got one last session in with him.
I borrowed a voluminous but very short board. Long story short (*snort!*)...
I caught zero waves of note. The highlight of the session was just before paddling out I saw a dead mouse floating to and fro.
Aaron went in to pack and I mostly floated/somewhat paddled to the beachbreak. When I used to surf El Recodo half my life ago, I assumed the waves down there were all rocks, given what lay beneath me. It turns out it's beautiful, forgiving soft sand.
I found this last tidbit out after deciding to abort on a late takeoff. I was worried about the rocks so I jumped off and did a shallowish dive to the side of the wave. I gingerly put my foot down upon surfacing and it was that great spongy stuff!
Aaron was leaving today so I took advantage of school having been cancelled (and freeing me from taking Lucia) and got one last session in with him.
I borrowed a voluminous but very short board. Long story short (*snort!*)...
I caught zero waves of note. The highlight of the session was just before paddling out I saw a dead mouse floating to and fro.
Aaron went in to pack and I mostly floated/somewhat paddled to the beachbreak. When I used to surf El Recodo half my life ago, I assumed the waves down there were all rocks, given what lay beneath me. It turns out it's beautiful, forgiving soft sand.
I found this last tidbit out after deciding to abort on a late takeoff. I was worried about the rocks so I jumped off and did a shallowish dive to the side of the wave. I gingerly put my foot down upon surfacing and it was that great spongy stuff!